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Published on March 22nd, 2018 | by Kate Eastwood

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Spring Sampler Shawl Week 4: Baby Blanket!

For the final part of this CAL Kate has adapted her Spring Sampler Shawl pattern so that it can be made as a baby blanket!

Several of you asked along the way, if the Spring Sampler Shawl could be made as a baby blanket – well here it is!

When complete, my baby blanket measures 80cm x 100cm, but if you want to make a larger blanket you can increase the number in the starting chain and work it to the size you require. The number for your starting chain needs to be divisible by 2, 3 and 4 so that all of the stitch patterns will work out correctly. The first stitch band in Suzette Stitch will leave you with an odd number but this is increased back to your starting chain number in the first Dividing Band. (See pattern details below.)

The basic pattern of the blanket is the same as the shawl in that it is made up of different stitch bands with dividing strips worked between the different sections.

I worked the same stitches – Suzette Stitch, Alternate Bobble Stitch, Zigzag Stitch and Waffle stitch but because the blanket needs to have different dimensions to the shawl I worked more rows in each stitch to create deeper bands. Again, if you wanted to make a longer blanket you could either repeat the stitch bands several times or make each stitch band deeper with more rows of each stitch.

I also increased the depth of the dividing strips by working eight rows rather than four, as in the shawl.

For my blanket I used Willow & Lark Nest and worked with a 3.5mm hook.

I used: 14 x balls of MILK 201

3 x balls of FONDANT PINK 220

3 x balls of SAND 205

I worked all of my stitch bands and part of the border in MILK, and the total yardage used for this came to 1,750 yds.

I worked 4 of the dividing strips and the bobbles for the edging in FONDANT PINK, and the total yardage for this came to 375 yds.

I worked 3 of the dividing strips and part of the border in SAND, and the total yardage for this came to 375 yds.

The blanket would work up just as well in Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, you will need:

  • For the stitch bands 1,750 yards = 7 balls
  • For the dividing strips and bobble edging, 375 yards = 2 balls
  • For the dividing strips and partial border, 375 yards = 2 balls

You can find the original posts for the Spring Sampler Shawl here: Week One, Week Two, Week Three

crochet blanket

The pattern:

Stitch Band 1: Chain 156.

Work 19 rows of Suzette Stitch, 155 sts. Finish off.

Recap Suzette Stitch:

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook *work a DC and TR (SC and DC US) in to the same stitch. Skip a stitch* and repeat from * to * to the end of the row, making your last stitch a DC (SC US). Chain 1 and turn. 155 sts.

Row 2:  Work a DC and a TR (SC and DC US) in to the first stitch. *Skip a stitch and work a DC and TR (SC and DC US) into the next stitch.* repeat from * to * to the end of the row, making the last stitch of the row a DC (SC US). Chain 1 and turn.

Dividing Band 1: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top right hand corner and work 8 rows of either Dividing Band Option A or Option B. In the first row increase once to take your stitch count back to 156. Finish off.

Recap Option A

Row 1: With the right side of your work facing you, join in your new colour at the top left hand corner of your work. Working in to the back loops only, work a row of Rope stitch (DC (SC US) worked from left to right).  We need to increase the stitch count to 156 along this row – do this by working two rope stitches into one stitch, anywhere along the row. At the end of the row chain 1 but do not turn. 156 sts.

Row 2: Work along the row, from right to left as usual, working DC (SC US) on top of your row of the Rope Stitch. 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 but do not turn.

Row 3: Working in to the back loops only, work a row of Rope stitch. 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 but do not turn.

Row 4: Work along the row, working DC (SC US) on top of the row of Rope Stitch. 156 sts.  Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice more. (8 rows in total).

Recap Option B

Row 1: With the right side of your work facing you, join in your new colour at the top right hand corner of your work. Working in to the back loops only, work a row of DC (SC US) – and because we need the stitch count to come back to 156 sts, work TWO DC (SC US) into one of the stitches anywhere along this row. At the end of the row chain 1 and  turn. 156 sts.

Row 2: Work a row of DC (SC US) 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.

Rows 3 to 8: Repeat Row 2.  Finish off at the end of Row 8. 156 sts.

Stitch Band 2: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work Rows 1 to 5 of Alternate Bobble Stitch, 156 sts.

Repeat Rows 2 to 5 until you have a total of 7 bobble rows, ending with a Row 5. Finish off.

Recap Alternate Bobble Stitch:

To make a bobble: work 4 TR (DC US) all into the same stitch, leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook. You will now have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

Row 1: With the right side of your work facing join in the colour for the stitch band at the top right hand corner and chain 2. Working in to the back loops only and starting in the first stitch, work a row of TR (DC US). 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.

Row 2: This is Bobble Row 1. Now working into both loops again as usual, DC (SC US) 2. Make a Bobble in the next stitch. *DC (SC US) 3, make a bobble.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. The last 2 stitches of the row will be DC (US SC). 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 2 and turn.

Row 3: Work a TR (DC US) into each stitch all the way along the row. 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.

Row 4: This is Bobble Row 2. DC (SC US) 4. Make a bobble in the next stitch, DC (SC US) 3. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. The last 4 stitches of the row will be DC (SC US). 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 2 and turn.

Row 5: Work a TR (SC US) into each stitch all the way along the row. 156 sts. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.

Dividing Band 2: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work 4 rows of either Dividing Band Option A or Option B, 156 sts. Finish off.

Stitch Band 3: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work Rows 1 to 3 of Zig Zag Stitch. Work a further 17 rows of Zig Zag stitch (row 3 below) followed by a row of DC (SC US).

Recap Zig Zag Stitch:

With the right side of your work facing, re-join your yarn at the top right hand corner.

Row 1:  Working in to the back loops only, work a row of DC (SC US). 156 sts. Finish off.

Row 2:  Re-join your yarn at the right hand corner of your work. Chain 2.

Starting in the second chain from the hook ,* insert your hook and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook. Chain 1. Skip a stitch and repeat from * to  * to the end of the row, making the last stitch of the row a DC (SC UK). Chain 2 and turn.

Row 3: Starting in the first stitch, work a row of Zig Zag stitch as in Row 2. Finish the row with a DC (SC US), chain 2 and turn.

Dividing Band 3: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work 4 rows of either Dividing Band Option A or Option B, 156 sts. Finish off.

Stitch Band 4: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work Rows 1 to 3 of Waffle Stitch. Repeating Rows 2 and 3, work a further 12 rows of Waffle Stitch.

Recap Waffle Stitch:

Row 1: Work a row of TR(DC US). 300 sts. Finish off at the end of the row.

Row 2:  With right side facing, Rejoin yarn at right hand top corner with a 2 chain. Work 1 TR (DC US). * Work a FTR (FPDC US) followed by 2 TR (DC US)*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row, with your last stitch being a TR (DC US). 300 sts. Chain 2 and turn

Row 3: Work 2 TR (DC US) followed by 2 BTR (BPDC US). * Then work 1 TR (DC US) and 2 BTR (BPDC US)*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row, ending the row with 2 TR (DC US). 300 sts. Chain 2 and turn.

Now work a row of DC, 156 sts.

Dividing Band 4: With right side facing, join your yarn at the top  right hand corner and work 4 rows of either Dividing Band Option A or Option B, 156 sts. Finish off.

You are now at the central point of the blanket.

Continue working the blanket by repeating Stitch Band 4 and a Dividing Band, Stitch Band 3 and a Dividing Band, Stitch Band 2 and a Dividing Band and then finish with Stitch Band 1.

Finish off and sew in the ends.

The border pattern:

As with the pattern for the shawl, any of the three borders would work equally well on a blanket, but if you fancy something a little different here are the details for a Bobble Edge that will finish your blanket off beautifully.

Round 1: Rejoin your yarn (I used MILK) and work a round of DC (SC US), working 2 extra stitches at each corner. Sl St to join at the end of the round. Chain 1.

Round 2: Work a round of DC (SC US), working 2 extra stitches at each corner.  Sl St to join at the end of the round. Chain 1.

Round 3: Using a second colour (I used SAND), rejoin your yarn and work a round of DC (SC US), working 2 extra stitches at each corner . Sl St to join at the end of the round. Finish off.

Round 4: Rejoin your main colour, chain 2 and working in to the back loops only work a round of TR (DC US), working 2 extra stitches at each corner. Sl St to join at the end of the round and chain 1.

Round 5: In this round you will be making the bobbles so you will be working with 2 strands of yarn; your main colour and the colour that you are using for the bobbles.

With the yarn for the bobbles (I used FONDANT PINK)  running along the top edge of your stitches, using your main colour DC (SC US) 5. *Now yarn over with your bobble colour and work a bobble as in the Alternate Bobble stitch. Work the final yarn over of the bobble in your main colour yarn and then work 5 DC (SC US) in the main colour*. Repeat from * to * all the way around the edge of your blanket.

At the end of the round , using your main colour, Sl St to join and chain 1. Finish off your bobble colour.

crochet bobble

crochet bobble

crochet bobble

crochet bobble

crochet bobble

Round 6: Work a round of TR (DC US), working 2 extra stitches at each corner. Sl St to join at the end of the round and finish off.

Round 7:  Rejoin the yarn colour that you used in Round 3 (I used SAND) work a round of DC (SC US).  Sl St to join at the end of the round and chain 1.

Round 8: This is your final round and will create a textured edge to finish off your blanket.

Using the same colour yarn as the last round, *Sl St 1 in the first stitch, Ch 1, Sl St 1 in to the next stitch, Ch 1*.  Repeat from * to * all the way around the edge, Sl St to join at the end of the round and finish off. Sew in the ends.

With that bringing this CAL to an end, I’d like to say a big thank you to everyone who has joined in and to everyone at LoveCrochet for making it happen!

I very much hope that you have enjoyed taking part, whether it was to make a shawl or a blanket and don’t forget, as you all come to the end of your projects, we would love to see your photos of your finished items so don’t forget to post them on the LoveCrochet CAL Facebook page or on Instagram with the tags #lovecrochetcom #crochetcrew

Explore more of Kate’s free tutorials on the blog, and follow her on Instagram here!


About the Author

Living just outside Bath, Kate is fortunate enough to be able to indulge two of her biggest loves -- living right in the middle of the countryside but within easy distance of retail therapy. When not working at her nursery school she loves nothing more than a day of pootling around, with crochet, sofa and tea being right at the top of the list.




8 Responses to Spring Sampler Shawl Week 4: Baby Blanket!

  1. Jacqueline says:

    This is a beautiful baby blanket pattern
    Can I buy the pattern to down load

    • Merion says:

      Hi Jacqueline, we’re working on creating some downloadable patterns for Kate’s patterns at the moment, and we’ll update you here on the blog when they are ready for download. Until then though, don’t worry, they will stay here on the blog for general access!

      Kindest,
      Merion and the LoveCrochet team x

  2. Jasmine says:

    Thanks for a beautiful pattern and especially for turning it into a baby blanket.
    I’ve just done the first Suzette stitch band and trying to do the dividing band but I can’t work out which is the “Right side” of my Suzette stitch band which I need to have facing me.
    After having done 19 rows of the suzette band and finished off, is the finished off end to my right or left if I’m looking at the “right side” of my work?
    (eg if I’m doing Option A, do I join in my new colour on the same end as where I finished off the Suzette stitch or the other end?)
    Thanks hope this makes sense…. it’s really doing my head in! I’m guessing the bobble and waffle “right sides” will be much easier to work out.

  3. Catherine Mock says:

    Wondering if there is a download pattern to buy yet?
    Thanks,
    Catherine

  4. Angie Hindley says:

    The Willow and Lark yarn is lovely to work with. I think it’s that little bit of crochet. Do I need to block the blanket before I work the border please?

  5. Linda Teeter says:

    The Willow and Lark yarn is lovely but not washable. I love the milk and sand color and wondered if you know of another DK machine washable yarn that are nearly the same colors? Its so difficult to determine yarn colors on a computer.

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