Crochet Club: small drawstring bag
Going away? Get organised ahead of time and make a gorgeous bobbly drawstring bag and matching sunglasses case from Kate Eastwood!
If your household is anything like mine, when there’s packing to be done there are never enough washbags to go around, let alone spare bags for sun lotions and other essentials like your beach first aid kit. So for this week’s Crochet Club I made a small drawstring bag that is the perfect size for sun cream, mosquito sprays, after sun lotions and anything else that might take your fancy — with a matching sunglasses case to follow next week!
The bag is made with a circular base, and is fastened at the top with a simple drawstring and folds flat when empty. The finished bag measures: Base 13 cm diameter x H 18cm. This tutorial is written in UK crochet terminology, but you can convert to US using our handy chart!
For this bag, I used Lang Yarns Presto, 2 x balls in Yellow 0013 and 1 x ball in Reseda 0074 (which I’ll refer to throughout as “duck egg”.) This is an aran weight cotton yarn that comes in over 24 shades, so works up to make a good soft, but firm texture and is fully washable. I used a 4 mm hook.
For the bobbles and the puff bobble edging I used some oddments of white cotton in a DK weight. The border is worked with a 3.5 mm hook but the bobbles on the main body of the bag are worked in a 4mm hook.
Begin by making a Magic Ring and for Round 1 work 8 DC in to the ring. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch. 16 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 3: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and then 1 DC into the next stitch, all the way around. 24 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 4: Work 2 DC into the first stitch and then 1 DC in to each of the next two stitches, all the way around. 32 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 5: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and then 1 DC in to each of the next 3 stitches. 40 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 6: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and 1 DC in to each of the next 4 stitches, all the way around. 48 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 7: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and 1 DC in to each of the next 5 stitches, all the way around. 56 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 8: Work a round of DC. 56 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 9: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and 1 DC in to each of the next 6 stitches, all the way around. 64 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 10: Round 8: Work a round of DC. 64 sts. SL ST to join. Ch 1.
Round 11: For this round you are going to be working in to the back loops only. This will create an ‘edge’ to start the sides of the bag.
So, working in DC, and into the back loops only, DC 1, DC 2 in to the next stitch, DC 1, DC 2 into the next stitch, repeating this pattern all the way around. 93 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.
I found it quite useful to mark the end of the round with a stitch marker.
Continuing in DC, work a further 5 rounds. Remember to SL ST to join at the end of each round and chain 1. Your first stitch of each round is worked in to the same stitch as the chain 1.
As you work you will see the shape beginning to form.
At the end of the fifth round of yellow change to the second colour yarn and work 3 rounds of DC.
After the third round of the duck egg change back to the yellow and work 1 round of DC.
Your next round is going to be the bobble round.
To make a bobble: Join in the white by placing the yarn over the hook, work 7 TR all into the next stitch, leaving the last loop of each TR on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops on your hook, chain 1, yarn over with your main colour and DC in to the next stitch. After each bobble, cut the yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew in at the end.
For the bobble round: Work 5 DC, make a bobble, work 5 DC, make a bobble… all the way around.
After your bobble row work 1 more round of DC in the yellow.
Change to the duck egg and work 3 rounds of DC.
Change to yellow and work 3 rounds.
Change to the duck egg and work 1 round of DC. Work a bobble round for the second duck egg round and then work one further round of duck egg.
Continue in this pattern of three rounds of each colour, with every third block of colour having a bobble round in the middle of it.
In total I worked 3 bobble rounds. After the final bobble round, work your third round of yellow.
Work 1 round in duck egg.
Change to the yellow yarn and to make the eyelets for the drawstring work as follows: *DC 5, chain 1 and skip a stitch, rejoin yarn to work* Repeat from * to *
For your final round, continue working in the yellow and work a round of DC, working in to each chain stitch from the previous round. Finish off and sew in all your ends. Thread your cord through the eyelets.
You are now going to work your border of puff/bobble stitch, using the white DK yarn and a 3.5mm hook. With the RS of the work facing you, join your yarn in to the back of your bag, on the left hand side of your joining seam. (This round is worked on the reverse, but when you turn it around you will see that the bobbles are on the correct side.) Work a DC.
To make your puff stitch bobble: Yarn over and pull up to roughly TR height, repeat this 4 more times all in to the same stitch, yarn over and pull through all the loops on your hook. Chain 1 and then SL ST in to the next stitch. Work another puff bobble in to the next stitch. Repeat the pattern of one puff bobble, one SL ST all the way around the top of the bag.
Once you have your finished bag the only thing left to do is to fill it – and if you have no holidays planned why not treat yourself, and fill it with all your favourite pampering goodies!
Check in next week for Kate’s fabulous matching sunglasses case!
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