Tapestry Purse Tutorial with Anna Nikipirowicz
Welcome to Crochet Club and another fantastic tutorial from the brilliant Anna Nikipirowicz! This week Anna is going to show you how to use the tapestry crochet method to make a gorgeous purse!
Every crocheter needs a little pouch to carry their small projects around and it really doesn’t get any cuter than this!
The pouch is made using tapestry crochet which is a technique for creating multi-coloured fabrics, very similar to fair isle in knitting, in fact this technique is very often referred to as fair isle crochet. In tapestry crochet your additional colour is carried along while you make your stitches, hidden on the inside of those stitches, until you are ready to switch colours. It results in nice and firm fabric.
Tapestry crochet is most often used when crocheting in the round, it is nice to be able to work all your colour changes from the same side of the work and I also think it looks the neatest as very often when working on wrong side rows the additional yarn being carried in between your stitches is quite visible. However, please do not limit yourself to only working in the round with this technique. Have a go at crocheting flat rows.
Let’s look at how to work from a chart!
Every chart is made up of little squares; each of those squares represents one stitch. Each chart will have a key to tell us exactly what each symbol or colour means. The chart we will be working from is work entirely using double crochet so the chart (Key 1) is for colours only, which means the key tells us which colour we must use in each square. However, very often charts are made to accommodate black and white printing and if there are more than two colours, symbols such as : x *o are used to designate each colour instead (Key 2).
The chart we will be working from is designed to be worked in the rounds; the clue is that all the row numbers are on the right, which means that all the rows are to be worked on the right side, as in the example below (fig.1). If the project needed to be worked flat the numbers for the right side rows will be on the right (odd numbers) and for wrong side rows will be on the left (even numbers).
The foundation chain is not shown on crochet charts. In the example chart below the foundation chains are represented by the numbers that appear along the bottom. If you are left-handed, read the chart from left to right; it’s useful to mark the rows on the left hand side of the chart.
When you work from ‘in the round chart’ you will work from right to left. Starting at the bottom right corner at ‘1’ and ‘1’ square, working along the whole row then slip stitch the last stitch to close the round. Then you work row 2 and so on, changing colour as indicated on the chart.
Tip: use Post-it Notes to mark the row you are working on!
Let’s start on our pouch!
You will need:
Rowan Wool Cotton 4ply in three colours.
- Colour A – Light grey (Cloudy 505)
- Colour B – White (White 483)
- Colour C – Green (Glade 508)
3.00mm crochet hook
2 x pieces of fabric approximately 18.5 x 17.5cm
Snap keyring hook
- Ch – chain
- Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet)
22 double crochet and 21 row to 10cm using 3.00mm crochet hook
The completed pouch measures approximately 17.5cm wide and 16.5cm in height. The strap approximately 16cm when folded.
Please note: I’ll be using different yarn for the tutorial from the one stated in the materials. The yarn I’ll be using is a lot thicker as I want you to see more clearly what I’ll be doing.
Below is the chart we will be working from: the chart only shows the front of our pouch, which means we will need to repeat the 40 stitches once more.
We will start with 80 chains: 40 for the front + 40 for the back = 80 chains.
With colour A and 3mm crochet hook make 80 chains; join with slip stitch to first chain to form a loop, making sure you the loop is not twisted.
Round 1 of chart: ch 1, 1 dc into every chain to end, slip stitch to first dc to close the round.
Round 2 of chart: We will now start to add colour. Our first stitch is in colour B.
Make one chain using colour B, insert your hook into the double crochet at the base of 1 ch, grab the yarn and pull through the stitch, 2 stitches on your hook.
Wrap colour A around the hook and pull through both of those stitches on hook. This is a very neat colour change that gives the nicest finish.
Now we have to work 8 double crochet in colour A, we will work 7 of those double crochet as we will change colour on the 8th stitch.
We want to carry colour B with us all the way, otherwise it will leave ugly large loops at the back.
To do this, hold colour B at the back of your next stitch, insert hook into stitch, your hook should be underneath colour B, grab colour A and finish of the stitch as normal.
Now you can see how the colour B is trapped in between the stitch.
Work next 7 double crochet, trapping yarn B in between every stitch.
Insert hook into 8th stitch, grab the yarn and pull through, 2 stitches on your hook.
Grab yarn B and pull through two loops on your hook.
This is the method we will be using for all colour changes, which will be worked on the last stitch of every colour section. The next two stitches on our chart must be worked in colour B, so we will work one full stitch in colour B and one half stitch, finishing of the half stitch with colour A, while keeping colour A in between stitches of colour B.
Continue as set, working from chart and carrying the yarn not in use in between your stitches. The last stitch of your round will be in colour B, slip stitch to first double crochet to close the round.
If you look on the wrong side of your work you will see a little bit of colour B seeping through the work, this is why I have mentioned before that tapestry crochet is most often used for working in the round, as you cannot see the yarn being carried in between the stitches on right side.
Work from chart for next 14 rounds then repeat rounds 1 to 15 once more, and then final repeat of rounds 1 to 6. All together you will work 36 rounds.
Turn the pouch inside out, hold both sides of foundation round together and work a row of double crochet to close the opening.
The motifs can sometimes slant in tapestry crochet to fix this, soak your pouch in water with a drop of wool wash, rinse and squeeze the water out, pin it out on a towel making sure that all the motifs line-up, leave it to dry.
If you wish you can insert lining into your pouch to give it extra support. To do this, take 2 x pieces of 18.5 x 17.5cm lining. With right sides facing each-other sew the three sides together, fold the top edges 1 cm in, insert into pouch and sew around the opening. Sew in zip.
Key ring strip
With yarn A and 3mm crochet hook make 9 chains.
Row 1: 1 dc into second chain from hook, I dc into every ch to end. (8 dc)
Row 2 and 3: ch 1, 1 dc into every dc to end.
Feed the D-ring through the keyring strip and attach to the left top side of pouch.
With yarn A and 3mm crochet hook make 61 chains.
Row 1: 1 dc into second chain from hook, I dc into every ch to end. (60 dc)
Row 2: ch 1, 1 dc into every dc to end.
Stitch together both ends of strap, wind colour C around the join leaving around 2cm loop on the lower part of strap and weave in ends. Attach smaller loop to key ring hook.
Don’t forget to share your finished purses with us on our Projects page, and take a look at our other fabulous Crochet Club tutorials!