Crochet Club: Bobbly Bathmat!
Clever Kate Eastwood from the Just Pootling blog brings you a beautiful bobbly bathmat to brighten up your bathroom!
Every now and again it feels good to add a breath of fresh air to some of the rooms we use day in and day out , and this week’s make is the perfect project for just that ….
For my bathmat I used:
4 x balls of light green, Hellgrun 26
4 x balls of darker green, ( not in pic ) Leuchtendgrün (44)
4 x balls of light pink, Rosé (37)
4 x balls of bright pink, Pink (10)
4 x balls of cream, Rohweiß (08)
I worked with a size 6.00 mm hook, and this tutorial uses UK crochet terms. To convert to US terms, please use our handy Conversion Charts!
The mat is worked in alternating bobble rows and DC rows. So that there is a staggered effect to the bobble pattern there is a Bobble Row 1 and a Bobble Row 2.
To make a bobble:
Work 5 TR all in to the same stitch, but on each TR just work half of the TR and leave the last loop on the hook. You should end up with 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops together.
Begin your mat by making a loose chain of 88. It is important to keep this as loose as you can, and to achieve this you may find it easier to work the starting chain with a 7mm hook, remembering to change back to your size 6mm hook for your first row.
Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work a row of DC. 87 sts. At the end of the row Ch 1 and turn.
You are now going to work Bobble Row 1.
Bobble Row 1: Into the first stitch work 1 DC and then one bobble, all into the same stitch. After the bobble work a DC in to the next stitch.
Continue along the row working 1 bobble followed by a DC in to the next stitch all the way along the row and then at the end of Bobble Row 1 work a DC in to each of the last 2 stitches. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.
You are now going to work a row of DC. At the end of the row chain 1 and turn.
As a guide , your DC row will look something like this ….
…. in that there is one larger stitch ( the bobble) and one smaller stitch ( the DC ).
I changed my colours at the end of each DC row. To do this simply join your new yarn in when making the CH 1 at the end of the row.
After your row of DC you need to work your next bobble row. This will be Bobble Row 2.
Bobble Row 2: Work 2 DC in to the first stitch and then a bobble in to the second stitch. Continue working along the row alternating a bobble and then a DC. At the end of the row work a DC in to each of the last 2 stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
You will notice that the bobbles in Bobble Row 2 sit above each DC from Bobble Row 1, giving a staggered effect to your bobbles.
Your next row will be a row of DC. Remember to chain 1 and turn at the end.
So, the basic pattern for your bathmat is: Bobble Row 1
Bobble Row 2
For my mat I worked a total of 6 repeats of my 5 different colours, and I then worked a final bobble row and DC row in the dark green that I worked my first bobble row in.
After your final DC row, finish off and sew in your ends. Then rejoin your yarn at the top left hand corner of your mat and work a round of DC down the left hand side, along the bottom and up the right hand side. Work 3 DC in to each corner stitch to help your mat keep its shape. I worked this round in the dark green so that I had an outline of green all the way around.
To finish off my bathmat I worked a Round of Rope stitch, in the bright pink, all the way around the edge. I then worked a second round of exactly the same stitch, on top of the first round, to make the Rope Stitch border nice and thick.
Rope Stitch is very simple to do as it is DC, but worked clockwise, instead of the usual anti-clockwise.
The final step is to sew in all your ends and then why not use some of the left over yarn to make some pretty facecloths to match?
Then it’s time to run that hot, bubbly bath and enjoy your new fresh looking bathroom!
Kate Eastwood blogs at JustPootling! Check her blog for lots more inspiration and gorgeous patterns!
For more fantastic tutorials, don’t forget to…